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Guide to the Juke Goodman collection of fashion illustrations, 1940-1952

Collection Overview

Repository
Kellen Design Archives
Creator - Collector
Goodman, Juke
Creator - Illustrator
Graftstrom, Ruth S.
Creator - Illustrator
Lindner, Jacqueline, d. 1952
Title
Juke Goodman collection of fashion illustrations, 1940-1952, undated
Extent
0.8 linear ft: 18 illustrations
Summary
A collection of eighteen 1940s and 1950s fashion and jewelry illustrations collected by art director Juke Goodman. Artists represented in the collection include René Robert Bouché, Burma Burris, Carl Ericson ("Eric"), Ruth Graftstrom, and Jacqueline Lindner. Goodman served as art director for Saks Fifth Avenue and was a visiting lecturer at Parsons School of Design.

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Biographical notes

Juke Goodman, the collector of the drawings, served as Saks Fifth Avenue's art director during the 1940s and was a critic and visiting lecturer at Parsons School of Design from 1949 until 1952. New York Art Directors Club publications of the 1940s and early 1950s indicate he worked directly with many of the artists represented in his collection on print advertising for Saks merchandise.

René Robert Bouché was born in Prague, but spent much of his professional career in France. He was widely associated with French Vogue magazine, for which he contributed fashion illustrations until 1941, when he immigrated to the United States. Bouché continued contributing to American  Vogue, in addition to illustrating advertisements for Saks Fifth Avenue and CBS. He was also a sought-after portraitist. René Robert Bouché died in England in 1963.

Burma Burris (also known as Burmah Hall Burris, 1910-2007) was an illustrator of humorous, cartoon-like fashion illustrations for Saks Fifth Avenue. She also illustrated children's books and taught at the High School of Art and Design in New York during the 1960s and 1970s.

Carl Erickson (1891-1958), who signed his work "Eric" was a leading fashion illustrator whose drawings appeared in Vogue and  Harper's Bazaar, among other publications.

Ruth Sigrid Graftstrom is most widely recognized as an illustrator for American Vogue magazine in the 1930s. She was represented by Leslie Ryecroft and Kay Hughes in the 1940s. Her work and personal history after 1950 is unknown.

Jacqueline E. Lindner (d. 1952) was born in Germany as Elsbeth Schulein. While an art student, she met and married her first husband, Richard Lindner, who later immigrated to New York and became a prominent American artist. After the rise of National Socialism in Germany, Jacqueline Lindner moved to France where she worked as a fashion illustrator. She immigrated to the United States in 1941. During her years in the United States, she illustrated for Saks Fifth Avenue and Life magazine.

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Burma Burris sources: http://www.askart.com/askart/b/burmah_burris/burmah_burris.aspx (accessed August 4, 2010) and John Steptoe Papers finding aid http://www.lib.usm.edu/~degrum/html/research/findaids/DG1168f.html (accessed August 4, 2010)

Jacqueline Lindner sources: Guide to the papers of Joseph Bornstein (accessed August 4, 2010 http://findingaids.cjh.org/?pID=121524) and Tableau de l'homme nue by Sylvie Camet (Editions Complicités, 2005).

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Scope and Contents of Collection

The collection consists of eighteen illustrations by commercial artists with whom Juke Goodman presumably worked in his capacity as art director. Many of the drawings appear in New York Art Directors Annuals under his and the illustrators' names. The illustrations are signed by the artists and date from the 1940s into the early 1950s. The latest dated drawing appeared in print in 1952. The drawings by René Robert Bouché are undated.

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Organization and Arrangement

Arranged alphabetically by artist.

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Administrative Information

Publication Information

Kellen Design Archives September 15, 2010

66 5th Ave./
lobby level/
New York, NY, 10011
212.229.5942
archivist@newschool.edu

Use Restrictions

To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the Kellen Design Archives. Please contact: archivist@newschool.edu.

Custodial History note

Donated to the Fashion Design Department, Parsons School of Design by Juke and Arline Goodman in 1980 and 1982. Transferred to Kellen Design Archives, 2003.

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Related Materials

The Kellen Design Archives holds separate fashion illustration collections comprised of the work of René Bouché (KA.0038) and Carl Erickson (KA.0041).

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Keywords for Searching Related Subjects

Corporate Name(s)

  • Bonwit Teller & Co.
  • Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.).

Genre(s)

  • Drawings.
  • Fashion illustrations (layout features).

Occupation(s)

  • Art directors.
  • Fashion illustrators.

Personal Name(s)

  • Bouché, René, 1905-1963
  • Erickson, Carl

Subject(s)

  • Commercial art -- United States -- 20th century.
  • Fashion drawing.
  • Jewelry.
  • Women's clothing -- United States -- 20th century -- Pictorial works.

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Collection Inventory

Title Box Folder
Bouché, René Robert, between 1941 and 1962  k_OSxxx-3 4
Burris, Burma, 1944  k_OSx-1 3

One playful design for a Saks Fifth Avenue Bridal Salon advertisement.

Title Box Folder
Ericson, Carl ("Eric"), 1949   4 illustrations k_OSxxx-1 3
MC C 3 4-6
Graftstrom, Ruth S., 1940-1946  k_OSxx-2 5

Five fashion illustrations executed in watercolor and ink by Ruth S. Graftstrom. The donor indicates that two of the illustrations were made for Bonwit Teller circa 1940 and a third was done for Saks Fifth Avenue circa 1946. The remaining two are for unidentified clients and undated, but they appear to be from the same period.

Lindner, Jacqueline E., 1941-1952  k_OSxx-2 9

Seven ink drawings depicting jewelry in fanciful settings. All are signed "J. E. Lindner." There is no indication when or for whom the illustrations were executed, but they appear in Art Directors Annuals as artwork created for Saks Fifth Avenue.

Collection guide Last Updated: 08/30/2012

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