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Guide to the Saks Fifth Avenue fashion publicity collection, 1954-1974

Collection Overview

Repository
Kellen Design Archives
Creator
Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.).
Title
Saks Fifth Avenue fashion publicity collection, 1954-1974
Extent
30 linear ft: 75 binders (3,799 photographs)
Summary
The collection is comprised of 75 binders of fashion photographs and press materials promoting Saks Fifth Avenue’s clothing lines between 1954 and 1974, including Sophie Gimbel Originals, Ready to Wear, and Custom collections from 1954 to 1967. In addition to providing a rich visual record of the dramatic evolution of style over the course of two decades, the photographs, reproductions of fashion sketch sheets, press releases, and other publicity materials shed light on Saks' fashion business development and marketing strategy under the leadership of Helen O'Hagan, who succeeded Grace de Mun as Saks publicity director.

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Historical note

Saks Fifth Avenue originated as a collaborative effort between Horace Saks of Saks & Co. and Bernard Gimbel of Gimbel Brothers. The upscale department store, located on Fifth Avenue at 50th Street in New York City, opened in 1924. Adam Long Gimbel (1893-1969), cousin of Bernard and assistant to Horace, became president of Saks after Horace died in 1926. Saks soon became known for its service and high quality merchandise, including custom fashions.

Sophie de Haas Gimbel worked as a stylist before becoming the in-house designer of the Salon Moderne at Saks Fifth Avenue. She married the store's president, Adam Gimbel, in 1931. Under several "Sophie" labels, Saks sold ready-to-wear collections notable for their use of expensive fabrics. In 1947 Sophie became the first American fashion designer to appear on the cover of Time magazine. She retired from Saks Fifth Avenue in 1969, just after her husband was made honorary chairman. Sophie Gimbel died in 1981. For additional information about Sophie Gimbel and the Salon Moderne please visit: http://fashion.parsons.edu/sophie/about/

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Scope and Content of Collection

The Saks Fifth Avenue fashion publicity collection includes photographs, press releases, news clippings, advertisements and publicity materials documenting the company's role as a leading fashion retailer from the mid-1950s through the mid-1970s. Primarily consisting of fashion photographs, the collection reflects the development of fashion trends and marketing over the course of two decades.

Comprised of 75 binders of fashion photographs and press materials promoting Saks Fifth Avenue’s clothing lines between 1954 and 1974, the collection documents the marketing of apparel designed by many notable designers, including Anne Fogarty, Helen Lee, Laura Aponte, Anne Cole, Louis Feraud, Emilio Pucci, Roger Vivier, Salvatore Ferragamo, Revillon, Adolfo, Anne Klein, Frank Smith, and Lisa Cobb, as well as Sak's well-known milliner, Tatiana. All photographs are black and white. Accompanying text materials in the form of captions, press releases, advertisements, and news clippings specify style number, color, cut, and fabric. Press releases often introduce new designers, providing biographical information and professional lineage, announce Saks' department offerings, and forecast a season's fashion trends. While primarily depicting apparel, the collection also includes some publicity for home and fashion accessories, such as hats, shoes, and silverware. The publicity materials were produced under the leadership of Helen O'Hagan, who succeeded Grace de Mun as Saks publicity director.

Sophie Gimbel's designs for Sophie Originals and Sophie Ready to Wear collections span 1954 to 1967, and include Sophie Gimbel Originals, Ready to Wear, and Custom collections from 1954 to 1967. Many photographs feature the model Wilhelmina, who went on to found a top modeling agency, and a number of photographs show that rooms in Sophie's own house were employed as a setting for the fashions modeled.

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Organization and Arrangement

Organized in 2 series. Arrangement is chronological and then alphabetical by designer or shop within each year.

  1. Sophie Gimbel collections, 1954-1967
  2. General collections, 1958-1974

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Administrative Information

Publication Information

Kellen Design Archives 2009

66 5th Ave./
lobby level/
New York, NY, 10011
212.229.5942
archivist@newschool.edu

Use Restrictions

To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the Kellen Design Archives. Please contact: archivist@newschool.edu.

Immediate Source of Acquisition

Donated by Helen O'Hagan, Vice President of Saks, 2003.

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Related Materials

The Kellen Design Archives holds a collection of Saks Fifth Avenue News (KA.0102), an in-house publication for Saks' employees, and a designer file on Sophie Gimbel. Additionally, the Fred Greenhill (KA.0022), Esta Nesbitt (KA.0086), and Juke Goodman (KA.0112) collections in the Kellen Design Archives include fashion illustrations created for Saks Fifth Avenue advertisements.

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Keywords for Searching Related Subjects

Corporate Name(s)

  • Anne Fogarty (Firm).
  • Anne Klein (Firm).
  • Christian Dior, Inc.
  • Louis Féraud (Firm).
  • Salvatore Ferragammo (Firm).
  • Tatiana of Saks Fifth Avenue.

Genre(s)

  • Clippings (information artifacts).
  • Fashion photographs.
  • Press kits.
  • Swatches.

Personal Name(s)

  • Adolfo, 1933-
  • Gimbel, Sophie, 1898-1981
  • Lee, Helen, 1908-1991
  • Levine, Beth, 1914-2006
  • Lowe, Anne Cole, 1898-1981
  • O'Hagan, Helen
  • Pucci, Emilio, 1914-1992
  • Vivier, Roger

Subject(s)

  • Advertising -- Fashion.
  • Clothing and dress -- United States -- 20th century.
  • Fashion merchandising.
  • Hats -- United States -- 20th century -- Pictorial works.
  • Men's clothing -- United States -- 20th century -- Pictorial works.
  • Shoes -- United States -- 20th century -- Pictorial works.
  • Women's clothing -- United States -- 20th century.

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Collection Inventory

Series I. Sophie Gimbel collections 
Title Binder Folder
Sophie Originals: Resort-Spring 1954  1
Sophie Originals: Fall-Winter 1954-1955  2
Sophie Originals: Resort-Spring 1955  3
Sophie Originals: Fall-Winter 1955-1956  4
Sophie Originals: Resort-Spring 1956  5
Sophie Originals Ready to Wear [?]: Spring 1956  6
Sophie Originals Ready to Wear: Resort-Spring 1957  7
Sophie Originals: Resort 1957-1958  7-8

Includes fabric swatches.

Sophie Originals: Fall-Winter 1957-1958  8-9
Sophie Originals: Resort-Spring 1958  9
Sophie Ready to Wear: Fall-Winter 1958-1959  10
Sophie Ready to Wear: Resort-Spring 1958-1959  11
Sophie Ready to Wear: Fall-Winter 1960  12

The ensemble numbered 6767 is represented in the Parsons The New School for Design's Fashion Archive.

Sophie Custom: Spring 1961  12
Sophie Custom: Fall-Winter 1961  13
Sophie Ready to Wear: Fall-Winter 1961  13-14
Sophie Ready to Wear Collection: Resort 1962  14
Sophie Ready to Wear Collection: Spring 1963  14-15
Sophie Ready to Wear Collection: Fall-Winter 1963  16
Sophie Ready to Wear Collection: Resort 1964-1965  16-17
Sophie Ready to Wear Collection: Spring 1965  17-18
Sophie Custom Order: Fall-Winter 1967  18

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Series II. General collections 
1958 
Title Binder Folder
Anne Fogarty: Summer [?]  19
Anne Fogarty: Fall-Winter  20
American College Girls  21
1959 
Title Binder Folder
Anne Fogarty: Resort-Spring  22
Anne Fogarty: Fall-Winter  22
Anne Fogarty: First Sportswear  22
1961 
Title Binder Folder
Anne Fogarty: Spring  23
Anne Fogarty: Summer  23
Anne Fogarty: Fall  23
Anne Fogarty: Resort  23
Degas Shoe Bar: Spring  23
Fourth Floor Shoes: Spring  24
French Haute Couture: Spring  24
French Haute Couture: Fall  24
Helen Lee: Spring  25
Helen Lee: Summer  25
Helen Lee: Fall  25
Helen Lee: Resort  25
Laura Aponte Italian Knitwear: Spring-Summer  25
Louis Feraud: Winter  25
Park Avenue Room  26
Paulette Hats: Spring  26
Paulette Hats: Fall  26
Safinia: Summer  26
Safinia: Fall  26
Tatiana Hats: Spring  27
Tatiana Hats: Fall  27
1962 
Title Binder Folder
Active Sportswear: Summer  27
Active Sportswear: Riding Clothes  27
Anne Cole Swimwear: Summer  27
Anne Cole: Resort  27
Anne Fogarty: Spring  27
Anne Fogarty: Summer  27
Anne Fogarty: Fall  27
Anne Fogarty: Resort  28
Bonnie Cashin: Fall  28
Bridal: Spring  28
Bridal Gifts  28
Carlin Comfort Shop  28
Children's Knits: Fall  28
Chinese Gowns  28
Christmas Gifts  28
College Shops: Fall  29
Emilio Pucci: Summer  29
Ernst Engel: Winter  29
Evening Room: Fall  29
Fiamma Ferragamo Shoes  29
Helen Lee: Spring  29
Helen Lee at Work: Fall  29
Helen Lee: Fall  29
Independence Sports  30
Kim Hunter  30
Laura Aponte: Fall  30
Little Sophie: Easter  30
Louis Feraud: Spring  30
Louis Feraud: Fall  30
Marion Wieder Bath Shop  30
Nancy Dee: Fall  30
Park Avenue: Fall  31
Paulette Hats: Spring  31
Paulette Hats: Fall  31
Rodier Knits: Fall  31
Roger Fare: Fall  32
Safinia: Spring  32
Safinia: Summer  32
Safinia: Fall  32
Safinia Holiday Collection: Holiday  33
Safinia Holiday Collection: Resort  33
Salvatore Ferragamo Shoes: Fall  33
Shoe Salon: Spring  33
Shoe Salon: Fall  33
Shoe Salon: Resort  34
Shoe Salon Boots: Fall  34
Tatiana Hats: Fall  34
Tiaras  34
Toy Shop  34
Veau Velours: Fall  34
Young Elite Shop: Transitional Fall  34
Young Elite Shop: Hong Kong dresses  34
Young Elite Shop Shoes: Fall  34
1963 
Title Binder Folder
Anne Cole: Summer  35
Anne Cole of California: Resort  35
Anne Fogarty: Spring  35
Anne Fogarty: Summer  35
Ben Zuckerman: Fall  35
Bonnie Cashin Sportswear: Fall  35
Bonnie Cashin Sportswear: Fall-Winter  35
Bridal: Spring  35
Children's Swimwear: Summer  36
Christmas Gifts  36
College Shop  36
Contessina: Fall  36
Emilio Pucci: Fall  37
Evening Collection: Fall  37
Evening Room Academy Awards  37
Giovanna Ferragamo: Resort  37
The ''Gourmette"  37
Helen Lee: Spring  37
Helen Lee: Summer  37
Helen Lee: Fall  38
Helen Lee: Mid-Winter  38
Helen Lee: Holiday  38
Hong Kong Dresses: Spring  38
Koret Bags: Fall  38
Living Wig  38
Louis Feraud: Spring  38
Louis Feraud: Fall-Winter  39
Louise Suggs Golf Apparel  39
Maternity  39
Mirsa Knits: Fall-Winter  39
Paris Imports: Spring  39
Paulette Hats: Spring  40
Paulette Hats: Fall  40
Pearl Room Opening: Fall  40
Protégé Couture: Fall  40
Revillon Custom Collection  40
Roger Vivier  40
Sacha  41
Safinia: Spring  41
Safinia: Summer  41
Safinia: Fall  41
Safinia: Holiday  41
Salvatore Ferragamo Shoes  41
Shoe Collection: Spring  42
Skiwear  42
Stacy: Spring  42
Stacy: Summer  42
Stacy: Fall  42
Summer Cottons: Summer  42
Tatiana Hats: Spring  43
Tricot Knits: Fall  43
Young Elite Shop Shoes: Summer  43
Young Elite Shop: Holiday  43
1964 
Title Binder Folder
Active Sportswear: Summer  43
Active Sportswear Riding clothes  43
Active Sportswear: Winter  43
At-Home Clothes: Summer  43
Beachwear Collection: Summer  44
Blouse Department: Summer  44
Bridal: Spring  44
College Shop: Fall  44
Emilio Pucci: Summer  44
Fiamma Ferragamo Shoes  44
Gloria Sachs Cobblestone Collection  44
Helen Lee: Fall-Winter  45
Kip Carpenter: Summer  45
Lucie Ann Lingerie: Fall-Winter  45
Luggage Shop: Summer  45
Lynn Stuart: Summer  45
Pan American Hong Kong Dresses  45
Roger Vivier: Spring  46
Safinia: Spring  46
Safinia: Summer  46
Safinia: Mid-season  46
Shoes: Spring  46
Tatiana Hats: Spring  47
Tatiana Hats: Fall  47
Tortoise: Summer  47
The Victors  47
Young Elite Shop Hong Kong Dresses  47
1965 
Title Binder Folder
Active Sportswear: Summer  48
Active Sportswear: Winter  48
Adolfo: Fall-Winter  48
Anne Cole Swimsuits: Summer  48
Beachwear: Summer  48
Ben Zuckerman: Fall  49
Children's Sportswear: Summer  49
Emilio Pucci: Spring  49
Emilio Pucci: Fall  49
Fiamma Ferragamo background  49
Fiamma Ferragamo Shoes: Spring  49
Fiamma Ferragamo Shoes: Fall-Winter  49
Gift Shop  50
Giovanna Ferragamo  50
Jacques Revillon: Fall-Winter  50
Juniorette: Summer  50
Louis Feraud: Spring  50
Louis Feraud: Fall-Winter  50
Lynn Stuart Holiday Collection  51
Lynn Stuart Resort Collection: Resort  51
Maternity  51
Men's Furnishings: Summer  51
Micia Collection  51
Monmouth Park Race Track: Summer [1965?]  51
Originala Suits: Fall-Winter  51
Park Avenue Room: Spring  51
Park Avenue Room: Fall-Winter  51
Paulette Hats: Spring  52
Paulette Hats: Fall-Winter  52
Safinia: Summer  52
Safinia: Fall-Winter  52
Safinia Holiday Collection  53
Shoe Salon: Fall-Winter  53
Sports Dresses: Summer  53
Tatiana: Spring  53
Toby of Palm Beach: Summer [1965?]  53
Young Elite London Collection: Fall  53
1966 
Title Binder Folder
Active Sportswear  54
Active Sportswear Men's Sweaters: Winter  54
Adolfo: Spring  54
Ann Cole of California: Summer  54
Anne-Marie Bennstrom V-Bar  54
Bridal: Spring-Summer  54
College Shop  55
Connoisseur Collection: Spring  55
Eloise Curtis: Spring  55
Emilio Pucci  55
Evelyn Marshall  55
Fiamma Ferragamo: Resort-Spring  55
Gloria Sachs: Spring-Summer  55
Hanea Mori  56
Helen Lee: Spring  56
Ken Scott [Press clipping only]  56
Kip Carpenter: Summer  56
Linda Hackett: Summer  56
Linda Hackett: Fall-Winter  56
Louis Feraud: Spring  56
Luggage Shop: Holiday  56
Lynn Stuart: Summer  56
Menswear: Fall [Press clipping only]  57
Minnie Cashins [?]  57
Paulette Hats: Spring  57
Ports of Call: Resort  57
Revillon: Winter  57
Roger Vivier Vinyl Shoes  57
Safinia: Summer  57
Salonette Collection: Holiday  57
Shoe Salon: Fall  57
Shoe Salon: Resort  57
Toby of Palm Beach: Spring-Summer  58
Toby of Palm Beach: Resort  58
Young Elite Shop Hats: Summer  58
Young Elite Shop: Fall-Winter  58
Young Elite Shop: Holiday [Press clipping only]  58
1967 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Spring  58
Adolfo: Fall-Winter  58
Anne Cole: Summer  58
Anne Klein: Summer  59
Beachwear: Resort  59
Belts  59
Bennett Cerf [Press clipping only]  59
Bridal Salon: Spring-Summer  59
Christy Wilson  59
Christmas Gifts  59
College Shop: Fall  59
Emilio Pucci: Summer  59
Emilio Pucci: Resort  60
Erno Laszlo Skin Care [Press clipping only]  60
Evelyn Marshall  60
Fiamma Ferragamo: Summer [Press clipping only]  60
Fiamma Ferragamo: Resort-Spring  60
Frank Smith: Fall-Winter  60
Frank Smith  60
Katja  60
Helen Lee: Fall-Winter  61
Hilary Frederic Byers: Summer [Press clipping only]  61
Kathy Moore [1967?]  61
Kip Carpenter: Summer  61
Kip Carpenter: Fall-Winter  61
Linda Hackett  61
Lisa Cobb: Resort  61
Louis Feraud: Spring  61
Louis Feraud: Fall-Winter  61
Maria Cooper Janis  61
Nina Ricci: Spring  62
Nina Ricci Swimwear  62
Pacific Air Lines Collection: Spring  62
Pauline Trigere: Spring  62
Mrs. Philip Geier [Press clipping only]  62
Rain Boutique: Spring-Summer  62
Revillon: Winter [Press release only]  62
Roger Fare: Spring [Press clipping only]  62
Roger Vivier: Summer  62
Safinia: Fall-Winter  62
Shoe Salon: Spring  62
Shoe Salon: Fall-Winter  63
Shoe Salon: Resort  63
Shoe Salon: Resort  63
Thoroughbred Collection: Summer  63
Thoroughbred Collection: Fall-Winter  63
Toby of Palm Beach: Summer  63
Wendy Thomas: Holiday  63
Westbury Garden: Summer [Press clipping only]  63
Mrs. Yorke  63
1968 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Spring  64
Adolfo: Fall  64
Anne Cole: Summer  64
Anne Klein: Fall  64
Aquavit Glasses  64
Bridal Salon: Spring-Summer  64
Christmas Gifts: Holiday  64
College Shop: Fall  65
Donald Brooks Star Collection  65
Emilio Pucci: Fall  65
Frank Smith: Fall-Winter  65
Helen Lee: Resort  65
Katja: Spring-Summer  66
Lisa Cobb: Resort  66
Louis Feraud: Fall-Winter  66
Shoe Salon: Spring  66
Shoe Salon: Fall  66
Shoe Salon: Resort  67
Thoroughbred: Spring  67
Thoroughbred: Fall-Winter  67
Young Elite Shop Evening Room: Spring-Summer  67
1969 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Spring  67
Adolfo: Fall  67
Anne Cole: Summer  68
Anne Cole of California: Summer  68
Anne Klein: Spring  68
Anne Klein: Fall-Winter  68
Beth Levine Bootery  68
College Shop: Fall-Winter  68
Diamoniar  68
Emilio Pucci  68
Fiamma Ferragamo: Resort-Spring  69
Frank Smith: Summer  69
Frank Smith: Resort  69
Gunter: Spring  69
Lisa Cobb  69
Louis Feraud: Spring  69
Louis Feraud: Fall-Winter  70
Louis Vuitton Luggage [1969?]  70
Rain Boutique: Spring  70
Revillon: Fall-Winter  70
Revillon: Winter  70
Shoe Salon: Spring  70
Shoe Salon: Fall  71
Side Kicks Collection: Resort  71
Stan Herman-Mr. Mort: Spring  71
Thoroughbred: Fall  71
Women's Sportswear [1969?]  71
Women's Sportswear Knits: Fall  71
Young Elite Shop Creators  71
1970 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Spring  72
Adolfo: Resort-Spring  72
Alber Van Slyke Children's Shoe Collection: Fall  72
Emilio Pucci Men's Collection: Summer  72
Frank Smith: Fall  72
Helen Lee Baby Collection [1970?]  72
Helen Lee Boy's Collection: Fall [1970?]  72
Jaeger Collection: Fall  72
Lisa Cobb Put-On Collection [1970?]  72
Louis Feraud  72
Maternity  73
Midi [?]  73
Needlepoint Department  73
Safinia: Fall  73
Boot Bonanza: Fall [Press release only]  73
Saks Fifth Avenue 915 Club's 27th Annual Banquet [Press release only]  73
Shoe Salon Exclusive: Fall [Press release only]  73
1971 
Title Binder Folder
Accessories: Spring  73
Active Sportswear Tennis  73
Adolfo Knits  73
Anne Cole of California: Summer  73
B.W. Wragge [1971?]  73
Emilio Pucci [1971?]  73
Helen Lee: Transitional  73
Katja: Summer  74
Milly's Country Clothes  74
Shoe Salon: Spring  74
Women's Sportswear Sweaters: Fall  74
Young Elite Evening Shop: Summer  74
Young Elite Shop Hot Pants  74
Young Elite Shop Hot Pants Accessories  74
1971 [Press releases only] 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Fall  74
Couture International: Fall  74
Salvatore Ferragamo: Resort-Spring  74
Fiamma Ferragamo: Fall-Winter-Resort  74
Salvatore Ferragamo: Fall-Winter  74
Princess Irene Galitzine: Fall  74
Jean Patou: Fall  74
Nicholas and Alexandra  74

The Margaret Hodge Company records (KA.0049) in the Kellen Design Archives include marketing materials for product tie-ins related to this film.

Robert Goldworm: Fall  74
Roger Vivier: Resort-Spring  74
Shoe Salon: Spring  74
Shoe Salon: Fall  74
Young Dimensions Shops  74
1972 [Press releases only] 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Spring-Summer  75
Adolfo: Fall  75
Anne Klein: Fall  75
Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear: Fall  75
Christmas Gifts  75
Clovis Ruffin  75
Goldworm Collection: Fall-Winter  75
Hair Accessories: Fall  75
Jean Cacharel: Spring-Summer  75
Jean Patou: Spring-Summer  75
Jean Patou: Fall  75
Norman V. Wechsler  75
Roger Vivier: Fall-Winter  75
Salvatore Ferragamo Autobiography  75
Salvatore Ferragamo: Spring-Summer  75
Salvatore Ferragamo: Fall-Winter  75
Shoe Salon: Fall-Winter  75
1973 [Press releases only] 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Resort-Spring  75
Adolfo: Fall  75
Anne Cole: Summer  75
Averardo Bessi  75
Beth Levine Bootery: Fall  75
Beth Levine Bootery: Fall-Winter  75
Cacharel Menswear: Fall-Winter  75
Christian Dior: Resort-Spring  75
Christian Dior: Fall  75
Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear: Fall  75
Christmas Gifts: Holiday  75
Crissa Collection: Fall-Winter  75
Easter Concert, 7th Annual  75
Emmanuelle Khanh Boutique  75
Emmanuelle Khanh: Fall  75
Emmanuelle Khanh: Fall-Winter  75
Evonne Goolagong Tenniswear Collection  75
Fancy Footwork Boutique  75
Fauchon Shop  75
Fernando Sanchez: Fall  75
Gourmet Shop  75
Herman N. Liberman, Jr.  75
Jean Cacharel: Spring-Summer  75
Missoni Collection: Holiday  75
Petropolis  75
Princess Owen Collection  75
Rain Boutique: Spring  75
Salvatore Ferragamo: Fall-Winter  75
Sibley-Coffee Collection: Spring  75
Sibley-Coffee Collection: Fall  75
Syracuse Alumnae Designer Collection  75
Travel Looks: Summer  75
1974 [Press releases only] 
Title Binder Folder
Adolfo: Resort-Spring  75
Adolfo: Spring  75
Anne Cole  75
Anne Klein: Spring  75
Beth Levine Bootery: Spring  75
Bill Blass: Resort-Spring  75
Bill Blass: Spring  75
Boy Scouts of America Luncheon  75
Christian Dior: Resort-Spring  75
Christian Dior Big Looks: Fall  75
Christian Dior Just One Break, Inc.: Spring  75
Christian Dior Shoe Collection: Spring  75
Christian Dior Shoe Collection: Fall  75
Clovis Ruffin: Spring-Summer  75
Fauchon Shop  75
Fernando Sanchez: Spring  75
Jean Cacharel: Spring  75
Margaret Court  75
Marie St. John Gray: Fall  75
Rain Boutique: Spring  75
Saks Fifth Avenue 50th Anniversary  75
Salvatore Ferragamo: Spring  75
Sibley-Coffee Collection: Summer  75
Stanley Sherman: Fall  75
Sweaters: Fall  75

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Collection guide Last Updated: 08/30/2012

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