Claire McCardell (1905-58) was arguably the leading force behind the development of American ready-to-wear fashion. From the 1930s to the 1950s, she revolutionized women's wear by designing clothing that was simple, functional, and stylish, all within the constraints of mass-production. Her ideas have so influenced and pervaded contemporary fashion that Life magazine, in 1990, named her one of the 100 most important Americans of the twentieth century. Four years later, New York Times senior fashion writer Bernadine Morris even dubbed her "this country's finest designer."
A quintessentially American artist often compared to Frank Lloyd Wright and Martha Graham, Claire McCardell was the chief purveyor of the "American Look," a style of clothing with roots in sportswear that was both casual and chic. Democratic in spirit, she brought high style to everyday clothing. Her work led the way in releasing America's fashion aesthetic from French dominance.
McCardell was incredibly versatile, designing raincoats, ski outfits, and wedding dresses, in addition to the standard coats, suits, and dresses. Her prodigious imagination was evident in the overall look of a piece, as well as the details of its construction, making the practical visually exciting. Her innovations include mix-and-match separates (1934), the tent dress (1938), and ballet slippers adapted as shoes (1944).
Studying Costume Illustration, McCardell graduated from Parsons in 1928. She served as a critic at the school from 1944 to 1957. In 1956, she received the Parsons Medal for Distinguished Achievement for her contributions to design.
Once out of school, McCardell had a series of short-term jobs in the New York fashion industry before becoming designer for Townley Frocks, in 1931. The company closed its doors in 1939. McCardell was then briefly employed by Hattie Carnegie and Win-Sum, a low-end manufacturer. She went back to Townley Frocks when it re-opened in 1940, and the firm soon began issuing its product under the label "Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley," in recognition of the importance of its designer. McCardell flourished with the company for the remainder of her career.
The Claire McCardell Sketches are held in 128 binders. There is a total of 9,831 sketches, done for Townley Frocks, Hattie Carnegie, and Win-Sum. The collection also features sketches produced by Mildred Orrick for Townley, from 1957 to 1959. Orrick helped McCardell finish her final season and then continued the line briefly after the latter's death.
The Fashion Design History Collection includes McCardell's sketches from 1931 (the first year of her work with Townley), 1943 (a breakthrough year that included the designs for the radical "pop-over dress" and "diaper bathing suit"), and 1957 (the last year of the designer's work).
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